1-tons on a JK?

#1
Anybody have pics of 1-ton axles on a JK with a ~2.5" lift? Trying to plan out my build and I am looking at an axle pair from a '05 or newer F250 (Dana 60 front and Sterling rear) and I want to run a 2.5" Metal Cloak Gamechanger w/ 6-pack or a RockKrawler 2.5" long arm setup with that. Planning on 37" tires on 16.5 wheels.
 
#3
I've done it. My Jk is on Mopar Dana 60's with 2 1/2" lift. If you go any less than that there won't be any up travel. Another thing you are going to get into with that much travel, is hitting the shock body on the frame at full articulation. I used 12" travel fox shocks and even with the skinny body they are right on the frame when the passenger side is drooped because the track bar pulls the axle. It does work perfectly, but it is at the limit. If you are building axles I'd suggest moving up and out the lower shock mount. That should help. I don't believe I'd mess with a long arm for 12" travel. I just don't think it's worth it. Most kits locate the control arm brackets under the frame and you just get hung up on them. Especially with only 2 1/2 lift. Regarding the 16.5's, not sure what Omniscient has against them, but I don't think they would clear my brakes. The 17's are tight. Mine is on 35's right now, but I'm looking for a set of 37 beadlocks to use wheeling. I'm confident they'll clear with my trimmed fenders.
 

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Pthorpe84

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#4
With the sterling you will need to have at least a 3" lift if you want any up travel at all. I suggest you give Dan at Fusion 4X4 and discuss with him. He has them on his jk and is running around 3.5. He is on many forums as Invest2m4. I also agree with Omni on the wheels. You need at least 17's to clear the brakes. Honestly for 37's I would just run stock til they break. 40's would be a more logical fit.




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Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#5
I've done it. My Jk is on Mopar Dana 60's with 2 1/2" lift. If you go any less than that there won't be any up travel. Another thing you are going to get into with that much travel, is hitting the shock body on the frame at full articulation. I used 12" travel fox shocks and even with the skinny body they are right on the frame when the passenger side is drooped because the track bar pulls the axle. It does work perfectly, but it is at the limit. If you are building axles I'd suggest moving up and out the lower shock mount. That should help. I don't believe I'd mess with a long arm for 12" travel. I just don't think it's worth it. Most kits locate the control arm brackets under the frame and you just get hung up on them. Especially with only 2 1/2 lift. Regarding the 16.5's, not sure what Omniscient has against them, but I don't think they would clear my brakes. The 17's are tight. Mine is on 35's right now, but I'm looking for a set of 37 beadlocks to use wheeling. I'm confident they'll clear with my trimmed fenders.
FYI Spyderlock 17's and 17" Slabs will NOT work with the Mopar Ultimate D60's. The brakes they use on them are so massive the lip of the rim will not fit over it. Just a heads up.
 

Pthorpe84

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Staff member
#6


JK on Fusion 60 and Fusion 10.5 axles and 40's with stretch. Dan (Invest2m4 on all forums) used custom long arms made with MetalCloak Joints. The stretch is incredible with no binding at all due to joints. There was a particular part of this trail I wish I had picture off. The rig was about 8 ft off the ground and way off camber. Crawled down with no issues. Ori's were at full droop on one side and stuffed on the other. It was incredible. [emoji1303] hope this gives everyone an idea on great the Fusion Axles are under a JK and that tons are a great, affordable option for JK's. I am eager to see the MC lock and Loads paired with this set up for jk.
 
#8
I will be building 3 sets of One Tons for three jeeps before I drive from Boston to the Rubicon in September... I will share the build on here when the work starts after I get back from my Honeymoon. I have decided to use the GM 14 bolt with shave kit instead of the Sterling though
 
#9
I have The bolt on Dana 60s under our JKU with a 3.5 MetalCloak Overland Elite lift. It also has a 4BT and a second fuel,tank where they put the stock muffler, so it rides lower. Lastly, we're running 35x12.50 R17 BFG T/A KO2s. High speed up travel is limited, mostly due to the weight of the Jeep. Low speed, offroad, it has great travel up and down. I have noticed that steering is more positive and the ride is better. I will say that these axles will require careful measurement of the wheels to ensure they clear the breaks. Not all 17" wheels will clear the breaks on these axles. Double check that the 16.6" wheels will clear the brakes on your axles.





 

Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#10
I will be building 3 sets of One Tons for three jeeps before I drive from Boston to the Rubicon in September... I will share the build on here when the work starts after I get back from my Honeymoon. I have decided to use the GM 14 bolt with shave kit instead of the Sterling though
Can't wait to see the build. Post it up so that we can see the progress


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#11
Can't wait to see the build. Post it up so that we can see the progress


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I picked the first set up after work and spent the night cutting off the brackets, I realized that the front axle was out of a 2005 before I made the first cut, so it is going back to the scrap yard and exchanging it for a 2004... The 14 bolt just got dropped off for sandblasting

1_ton_soup_1.jpg
 

Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#12
Nothing wrong with the 05+ models. In fact it's preferred. There is a newer set that will not work. I thing 2012+.


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#13
Nothing wrong with the 05+ models. In fact it's preferred. There is a newer set that will not work. I thing 2012+.


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I know its a stronger axle, but aftermarket parts are not as readily available. And in my research I didn't see anyone figure out ABS properly, most have 2 sensors on the rear. I want all electronics functioning perfectly
 

Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#14
Send me your email and I will send you the junk yard swap bible that Invest2m4 wrote. It shows how to do all the censors. Pretty easy.


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Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#15
As far as parts go, Yukon and ARB have lockers for them and artec makes everything you need. Plenty of gear sets out there. You have to run the 10.25 ring however.


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#16
Maybe too late to be of use, but thought I'd throw my .02 at the wheel question. Obviously, if the 16.5" wheel doesn't clear the brakes, it's a non-starter. But even if it would, it's a poor choice in my opinion. I spent a long time trying to figure out how I could incorporate a set of HMMWV wheels into my build and finally concluded that there are just too many drawbacks to them. But the deal breaker was the availability of tires for a 16.5. Yes, there are a few, but you'll be severely limited on your choice. Maybe you can live with that, but to me the more tire choices the better.
 

timatoe

Jeep Fanatic
#18
Maybe too late to be of use, but thought I'd throw my .02 at the wheel question. Obviously, if the 16.5" wheel doesn't clear the brakes, it's a non-starter. But even if it would, it's a poor choice in my opinion. I spent a long time trying to figure out how I could incorporate a set of HMMWV wheels into my build and finally concluded that there are just too many drawbacks to them. But the deal breaker was the availability of tires for a 16.5. Yes, there are a few, but you'll be severely limited on your choice. Maybe you can live with that, but to me the more tire choices the better.
I know it's an old post, but all of this is why I chose not to run the HMMWV 16.5's. Not to mention how crazy heavy they are.
 
#19
My Jeep has a 3 1/2" MC GameChanger and I am running a ProRock 60 with 35 spline alloys and ARB's on the front and a Shaved Chevy 14 Bolt with ARB in the rear.
I went with 17" because there are lots of tire options. My Option right now is 40"s.
When I had 37"s I had OK up flex, but with the 40"s it's pretty tight.

If you are going 37's and 2 1/2" it will be tight, I'd do at least a 3 1/2" lift.
 
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