Driveshaft upgrade

#1
I have a 2014 JKU with a. 3.5" AEV lift. We have to add exhaust spacers to avoid the driveshaft from running on the exhaust pipe. That work out great until I added skid plates. Because of the spacer, the exhaust pipe hangs a little lower and touches the skids just enough to cause a loud rattle. I had to add 3 thick washers to create a gap but have lost about an inch of ground clearance. Recently, on a trail, I hit a rock on the skid causing the rattle to come back. I can add yet another washer .... but I have already created a large enough lip on the skid and don't want to keep doing that. I was told the only solution is to get an aftermarket driveshaft so we can eliminate the exhaust spacer, which will allow us to put the skid up where it belongs. My questions:

1. Is that the only viable solution?
2. If so, should I go 1310 or 1350? Th forums say that the 1310 will allow a much better flex vs the 1350.

Please advise.



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#2
I have a 3.5 Gamechager lift and use a Tom Woods 1310 driveshaft and no exhaust extensions with full Rock Hard skid plates and have good clearance even after some hits.
 

Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#3
I have a 2014 JKU with a. 3.5" AEV lift. We have to add exhaust spacers to avoid the driveshaft from running on the exhaust pipe. That work out great until I added skid plates. Because of the spacer, the exhaust pipe hangs a little lower and touches the skids just enough to cause a loud rattle. I had to add 3 thick washers to create a gap but have lost about an inch of ground clearance. Recently, on a trail, I hit a rock on the skid causing the rattle to come back. I can add yet another washer .... but I have already created a large enough lip on the skid and don't want to keep doing that. I was told the only solution is to get an aftermarket driveshaft so we can eliminate the exhaust spacer, which will allow us to put the skid up where it belongs. My questions:

1. Is that the only viable solution?
2. If so, should I go 1310 or 1350? Th forums say that the 1310 will allow a much better flex vs the 1350.

Please advise.



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It’s my understanding that the 1350’s will allow for a higher angle. But the size of the 1350 is larger in diameter, which could cause contact. I am battling the same problem with my 1310. I refuse to use the spacers. I will be getting an AFE Y-Pipe delete to fix the issue. This moves the exhaust crossover behind the cross member. If you wheel hard I suggest a 1350. Even so a 1310 will suffice.


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Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#4
I have a 3.5 Gamechager lift and use a Tom Woods 1310 driveshaft and no exhaust extensions with full Rock Hard skid plates and have good clearance even after some hits.
I have the same lift and when both sides go to full droop, the drive shaft just touches the exhaust.


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#6
I also have the 3.5 Gamechanger and Tom Woods shafts but mine are 1350. I tried it without the spacers but at full droop on the driver side it rubbed pretty good so I put the MC spacers in. That totally fixed the rubbing issues.


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Pthorpe84

Moderator
Staff member
#7
I also have the 3.5 Gamechanger and Tom Woods shafts but mine are 1350. I tried it without the spacers but at full droop on the driver side it rubbed pretty good so I put the MC spacers in. That totally fixed the rubbing issues.


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Do you have any contact with the skid plates with the addition of the spacers?


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#8
Plenty of clearance on skid plates.


2014 JKU Sahara, Carbon/Currie Rock Jock 44 front 60 rear with 5.13 gears and ARB Lockers, Rubicon 4-1 Transfer Case, ARB Twin Compressor, Viair 2.5 gallon air tank, MC 3.5 Gamechanger, 6 pac shocks, MC Front Bumper with Bull Bar, Smittybilt X20 10000 lbs winch, MC Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier, MC Overline Fenders, MC Rock Rail, MC Tie Rod & Draglink, MC Skid Under Armor, Toyo 37x13.50 R18 Tires, DV8 Heat Hood, Line X Coated in Copperhead Pearl & Black, KC 8” HID Lights on top, KC Gravity LED Lights on Bull bar, Rigid diffused flood lights on 4 corners, Backup Camera, KC Rock Lights, Apollo Intech switchpod. Flowmaster Exaust, K&N Air Intake.
 
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